When do i need new skateboard bearings

What are the best shields for skateboard bearings? How long do skate bearings last? When do I need new skateboard bearings? How to clean skateboard bearings? I like to skate in the rain What does ABEC 11 mean? Are ABEC5 bearings good? Can you take bearings out of wheels? Let's get the biggest one out of the way first shall we? This is a question we get asked all the time, and the answer is not what you think. RU Also important is the amount of side-to-side play.

There are three metal parts to a skate bearing - the inner race, the outer race, and the balls. We see that you can now by something called a "titanium" skate bearing.

Ceramic bearings come in several varieties. Cheaper ceramics have one ceramic ball, six steel balls, and steel races. The idea is that the single ceramic ball keeps the races clear of dirt and water, meaning that you have to clean them less often.

This theory sounds great, but doesn't really work out in the real world - one ceramic ball out of seven just isn't enough to keep the bearing clean, and the steel components can still rust. Our opinion - don't bother. Most ceramics have all ceramic balls, and steel races - also known as a "Hybrid" ceramic bearing. These are much better, and much more expensive.

They do need cleaning less, and therefore they do roll fast for longer - but it's not a bullet-proof solution and they do need looking after, just less often. If you have money to spend and you want the best, this is a good place to be - although ceramics are overkill for most skaters, and very few will really notice the difference.

With these, the balls and races are made of ceramic - no steel at all! While we're here disseminating some Ceramic Bearing Truth, there's two claims that are sometimes made about ceramics that are patently not true: Ceramic Bearing Myth 1: You need to use a special grease No, you don't. Just use a regular bearing lube, same as everyone else. Ceramic Bearing Myth 2: Cermic bearings are self-lubruicating No, they aren't. Ceramic Bearing Myth 3: Ceramic bearings are lighter Seriously???

There's also a couple of things about Ceramic Bearings that you might not realise: Ceramic Bearing Truth 1: They're not very strong. Do I need speed rings for my skate bearings? This will slow your bearings down and wear them out super fast! This means - no more speed rings or bearings spacers!

Are "Shieldless" skate bearings faster than normal skate bearings? We don't recommend shieldless bearings to most skaters, due to the amount of babying they need. There are a few of different kinds of shield out there: "ZZ" Metal Shields.

Usually non-removable, metal shields are found on the cheapest skate bearings. Metal shields have a tiny gap between the shield and the inner race, which is usually covered by the nut or speed washer. Thanks to this gap, metal shielded bearings are very fast initially, as there is no drag from the shield, and they are surpisingly good at keeping dirt out - but they are also rubbish at keeping moisture out, so that speed doesn't last if you skate in damp conditions.

We would only recommend ZZ metal shielded bearings to skaters on a budget who don't skate in the wet and are happy to buy new bearings instead of cleaning them. Almost all metal shielded bearings have two shields.

This is what you'll find in most skate bearings. Here, the bearing shield contacts the outer race, but like a "Z" metal shield, there is a small gap between the inner race and the shield to minimise drag.

Rubber shielded skate bearings are definitely better at keeping dirt out than a "Z" Metal shield, but like their metal cousins, they do let water in so need regular cleaning if you skate in the wet. Happily, thanks to that gap, they are the easiest type of bearing shield to remove for cleaning. You simply slip the tip of a knife blade in between the inner race and the shield, and lever the shield off. We recommend RS or RS bearings to skaters who want faster rolling bearings, and don't mind looking after them if they skate in the wet.

A "2RS" bearing has two shields rather than one - we recommend a single shield like Bones Bearings for easier cleaning and less drag. These are the same as the "RS" standard, but they have a bigger shield which contact the inner race as well as the outer race. For this reason they are also known as "Full Contact" bearing shields. The shield sits in a "V" or "U" shaped channel machined into the inner bearing race.

So the shield is way better at keeping out not just dirt, but moisture too. The result? Skateboard bearings are the round metal pieces that fit inside the wheels to mount the wheels to the axle. Regardless of wheel size, all skateboard bearings are the same size and will fit any skateboard wheel that Warehouse Skateboards sells.

The universal measurements for bearings are 8mm core , 22mm outer diameter , and 7mm width. Skateboard bearings are sold in sets of eight, as each wheel requires two bearings.

You can browse Warehouse Skateboards' vast inventory of skateboard bearings , which are available in a variety of colors to suit your personal style. Most bearings are measured by an ABEC rating. The higher the ABEC rating, the more accurate and precise the bearing will be. This rating system includes grades 1, 3, 5, 7, and 9. The ABEC rating does not specify many critical factors, such as load handling capabilities, ball precision, materials, material Rockwell hardness, degree of ball and raceway polishing, noise, vibration, and lubricant.

ABEC 1 skateboard bearings tend to be the least expensive, the most crude, and the least accurate. The quality of the steel is not very high. ABEC 3 skateboard bearings are generally inexpensive and do not roll smoothly or quickly. ABEC 5 skateboard bearings are standard for most types of skateboarding. This rating gets you a fast speed at an affordable cost. ABEC 7 skateboard bearings are very fast, smooth, and cost slightly more.

They are great for downhill skating and skaters that want to move insanely fast. Bones Bearings uses their own rating system known as Skate Rated. Skateboard bearings may be small, but they are incredibly complex. When you first order skateboard bearings, you will probably think of them as one part of your skateboard. It isn't until you need to do maintenance on your bearings that you will have to split them open and learn about what's inside.

The bearings can now be mounted again. Vans Wayvee Wear Test — a truly new skate shoe? Le Garage Paris: skatedeluxe Night Recap. General Info 2. Skateboard Bearings: General Info. Hanger 2. Axle 3. Wheel 4. Bearings 5. Spacer 6. Speed Ring 7. Axle Nut. Outer Ring 2. Inner Ring 3.

Ball Cage 4. Shield 2. Ball Cage 3. Ball 4. Outer Ring 5. Inner Ring 6. Shield 7. These are made of high-grade steel and probably the best investment for a regular skateboard. This seems a bit long though, it also depends how hardcore and how often you skate.

Often you can get a decent deal on them and get some spacers and Bones speed cream included. I found a great set which I described here. However, I would advise transition skateboarders and people who like to cruise go for better quality bearings.

The Swiss bearings are and option or Bronson G3. You can really feel the difference in performance and it will save you a ton of pushing compared to cheap bearings. Dirt will stick to oil more than silicon lube so try to avoid using anything like the olive oil that you use to bake your potatoes. Also, keep in mind that once you cleaned your bearings you have to keep cleaning them regularly, preferably every 3 months if you skate all year.

Skateboard maintenance is often overlooked but can save you quite some money. Never apply oil to dirty bearings to make them spin faster. This is counterproductive and will push the existing dust and dirt deeper into your bearings.

At first it might seem like the spin faster but it will ruin the performance in the end been there.